A solo trek from St.Bees to Robin Hoods Bay

Wainwrights Coast to Coast walk is an unofficial route running across the north of England from St.Bees on the Cumbrian coast to Robin Hoods Bay on the North Sea coast. Alfred Wainwright devised it in 1972 as a response to his unhappy trip along the Pennine Way. During this walk he had frequently been drenched and stuck in bogs whilst researching his guidebook to England’s first National Trail. He decided to plan his own walk and chose the route by laying a ruler across a map and in doing so created what has now become one of the countries best loved walks. In crossing the Lake District, The Yorkshire Dales and the North York Moors it passes through three of the country’s most scenically outstanding areas.

I had long held an ambition to walk the route and often spent idle moments looking at a large scale map of Britain on the office wall at work wondering what it would be like to walk for the best part of a fortnight through some of England’s most spectacular scenery. Eventually, I decided to undertake a solo trek along the route in early 1998 and began making plans. I decided on Wednesday 8th April as a start date, partly because I wanted a midweek start and also because I would be using the minimum amount of days from my annual holiday allowance as this period included Easter. Starting midweek would put me 'out of step' with other walkers which would mean that I would have the walk to myself as much as possible.

After many weeks of buying gear and booking rooms I finally set-off to St.Bees with my wife Ann on the afternoon of the 7th April. As we drove north I worried about weather forecasts I had seen which showed snow in Southern Scotland and these fears weren't helped by snow lying on the Pennines which was clearly visible from the M6. Passing Keswick I also noticed the white-capped summits of Skiddaw and Blencathra which did nothing to allay these fears. In the event, the weather did force me to alter my plans but ultimately never came near to threatening the trip. Looking back five years later I realise that I did err on the side of caution when making route decisions but as I was alone this was probably no bad thing. I would love to go back one day and attempt the route I originally planned over High Stile, St.Sunday Crag and Kidsty Pike.

 For anyone thinking of attempting the walk I would say just go for it, you will not regret it. If you can bear your own company for the best part of a fortnight then walking it alone will make it even more of an adventure. People will more readily strike up a conversation with a lone walker than a group but the main reason for walking alone, at least in my opinion, is that without the constant  need to make conversation the experience is itensified and can be savoured in a way that is not possible with company.

As for guidebooks, for me there was only one choice and that was Wainwrights guide. I have read that some newer guides are better for various reasons but to me this is all nonsense. The idea was one mans and no-one  has such a 'feel' for the territory he is walking through and no-one else can put this across so eloquently. Certainly no other guidebook writer can draw maps so brilliantly. Just having that wonderful little pocket guide is like having Wainwright along as a walking partner and there can't be many better walking companions.