Friday 10th April 1998

The route out of Borrowdale is across meadows on a riverside path, which ascends steeply beneath Eagle Crag to Greenup Edge. If you are not visiting Grasmere, there is then a steep, rough descent into the Wythburn Valley. At the head of the valley very boggy ground is encountered. A clear path is then followed down to Thirlmere. After carefully crossing the A591, A steep climb follows to Grisedale Tarn. Those not taking either high level option here have a fairly straightforward descent into Grisedale and then onto Patterdale.

Route: Stonethwaite to Patterdale via Greenup Edge, Wythburn, Grisedale.

Distance: 12 Miles

Grade: Strenuous - with two long ascents over Greenup Edge and Grisedale. The head of the Wythburn Valley is boggy and care needs to be taken

Facilities: I stayed at Noran Bank Farm, which is an old traditional farmhouse. I have to say that I found it slightly gloomy with its dark wood panelled walls and glass boxes containing stuffed animals and birds. This tells only part of the story however, as the people were very friendly and hospitable and the food was excellent. The packed lunch was also one of the best on the whole walk. Patterdale has all facilities including a pub, The White Lion that serves excellent food and also offers accommodation. There is also a hotel, a youth hostel, a campsite and guesthouses including the superb Ullswater View. There is also a local shop, which sells sandwiches and a public telephone. Mobiles do not work in Patterdale.

Day Three

I left the guesthouse in overcast, slightly misty conditions and walked through the tiny hamlet of Stonethwaite before picking up the path alongside Stonethwaite Beck. The scene around here was a delight with Eagle Crag towering overhead at the confluence of rivers at the mouth of  the Langstrath valley. As I continued climbing I became aware of two walkers on the path high above me and slowed my pace as I was not in the mood for conversation. I soon lost sight of them as I carried on plodding upwards to the top of Greenup Edge and Lining Crag, my next objective. The final pull onto the crag was fairly steep and as I reached the top I was surprised to see the two walkers sprawled on the grassy summit. They introduced themselves as Travis and Vicky and despite my desire for solitude I found myself in conversation with them. They told me that they were teachers on holiday from Australia and they planned to complete the route in nine or ten days. (Above: Approaching Stonethwaite)

After chatting for a while I said goodbye before continuing on alone and was then halted in my tracks as I rounded a bend to be confronted by a superb vista of the snow-capped Helvellyn range. I took a photograph of this wonderful scene before descending steeply to the head of the Wythburn valley. I had decided that, as the weather did not look promising, I would take this alternative suggested by Wainwright thereby missing out Grasmere and saving myself five miles. As I found the track descending the valley I began congratulating myself as the snow had by now started falling. At the bottom of the valley, Helvellyn now loomed large above me and a small cluster of white cottages at the foot of its imposing slopes accentuated its size.

After carefully crossing the A591, I began the steep climb to Grisedale Tarn. I passed two walkers descending who warned me of gale force winds on the summit of Helvellyn and I was again faced with having to change my intended route over St..Sunday Crag as the snow was by now falling heavily. As much as I wanted to complete at least one of the high-level routes out of the three I had planned for the Lake District, conditions were once again conspiring against me. As I deliberated my options, I had my mind forcefully made up for me as I approached Grisedale Tarn. The wind, which had been fairly strong up until now, suddenly became a howling gale driving the stinging snow into my face and eyes. I found it impossible to proceed as the wind was blowing me backwards; I literally could not go in a forward direction. Retreating, I found a small rocky outcrop at the head of the tarn and made for cover. As I rounded the outcrop, I was confronted by three glum looking walkers who nodded an acknowledgement and we all stood silently staring out across the tarn at a solitary mallard as it glided unconcerned across the water.

After a time, the blizzard began to ease and, all thoughts of St.Sunday crag erased from my mind, I broke cover and made my way hurriedly down into Grisedale valley. I consoled myself that I had Kidsty Pike left as my last high level option for tomorrow. Surely things would be better by then. Arriving in Patterdale, I located my accommodation and later headed for the pub in the village where I met Travis and Vicky, the two Australian walkers from Lining Crag. A walker from Hertfordshire, (not too far from my home territory) joined us, and the four of us spent an excellent evening swapping walker’s tales and discussing the Coast to Coast walk. After a night where I probably consumed a little too much beer, I wobbled back to my guesthouse, the discomfort of the day’s trials at Grisedale Tarn now a distant memory.